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A topic recently on one of my email lists was about a puppy that wouldn’t let the owner take the collar and attach a leash. It got me thinking about all the times a dog has hands coming at its face. Attaching a leash is obvious, but what about trying to grab an escaped dog, a child falling and reaching for the dog, someone trying to pet the dog, looking at his ears, eyes, mouth or numerous other instances when hands come in close proximity with a dog’s head. Dogs react in many different ways to hands. Some love the contact, but some will shy back, some will snap and some will bite. Biting is not a good thing. Snapping isn’t great, but better than actually biting. Both biting and snapping can quickly end a dog’s life. Shying away makes life more difficult. There is one simple exercise that might help the problem, “Touch and Treat.” One thing I have found helpful with some hand shy dogs is a simple reconditioning program, Touch and Treat. Touch and Treat works especially well with a shy dog that spooks away from a hand. I would not try this with a truly aggressive dog because you will be putting yourself in a physically vulnerable position. A puppy or dog needs to learn that hands coming at it are a good thing and not something to fear. All dogs should be conditioned to accept a hand coming at their head/collar in a quick motion. Picture what might happen when a dog reacts to a child falling while reaching for the dog. That dog may willingly take the hit, duck or back away, but it could also snap or bite. Dogs need to be conditioned to expect the unexpected. The way I handle a hand shy dog is to listen to the dog and go slowly at first with the reconditioning. Start with the dog in a quiet environment (no distractions, familiar area) and offer a treat. Sounds simple enough but there is a method to use that will help accustom the dog to hands. The way to offer the treat is to hold your left hand open (reverse everything for you lefties), palm up and slightly towards the dog under its chin (like you are going to reach for the collar but don’t). Hold the treat in your right hand and position it over your left wrist. Don’t stare directly in the dog’s face. Focus just over the top of its head. That way you can keep an eye on the dog’s reaction without the dog feeling threatened. Direct eye contact can be interpreted by some dogs as a threat or challenge causing them to become apprehensive or feel the need to protect themselves. Wait for the dog to approach and take the treat. Don’t move the left hand or try to reach the collar. Don’t move your right hand forward with the treat. You might try this sitting in a chair, on the floor or sofa. Don’t be leaning over the dog. When she approaches and takes the treat (make sure you have some really great treats) verbally praise her, telling her how brave and smart she is. Then do it again and again and again, until she tells you she has no problem coming for the treat. Next step, same procedure except this time touch her with the fingers on your left hand BEFORE she gets the treat. If she backs up at the touch, don’t move or say anything – just wait her out. When she gets the treat, praise and repeat. As her confidence builds, increase the amount of touch you are using. Remember, she has to come past that left hand, allowing touch before getting the treat. Keep the treat hand steady, don’t move it to her, she has to come past the left hand to the treat. Eventually, you will be able to touch the collar and then actually hold it. Observe your dog, if you move to fast and she spooks then back up a step or two in your training. When you can reach out and grab the collar, hold it for a few seconds while praising before giving her the treat. As she becomes more confident increase the speed your left hand is moving until you can actually reach out and grab the collar very quickly. Then try the whole thing again by approaching the side (make sure to work both sides) of her face. Always start slowly and increase the speed of the grab and the intensity of the touch as her confidence builds. Then do the same thing again reaching over her head. When reaching over her head your left hand will be palm down and the treat hand will be under the left hand. If she spooks at any point, just freeze your hands and wait. Patience is necessary when training a shy dog. A lot of verbal praise and cookies when she accomplishes a step that was hard for her. I don’t use a lot of physical praise at this point because she is already having trouble with approaching hands. The speed at which a dog accepts you quickly reaching for its head or collar will vary from dog to dog. Go slowly and listen to the dog, she will tell you how fast to progress. It really doesn’t take a long time to be reach the collar if you will be patient and consistent with your approach and praise. Remember, she always has to allow the reaching hand to touch before receiving the treat. Don’t chase her; allow her to come to you as she feels confident. After you have her comfortable with your grabbing (quickly) the collar then have another member of the family do the same thing. Anytime you have another person work with the dog or you change the environment, start at the very beginning again. Once you have done the initial work, she will progress faster with each new person/environment if you learn to listen to the dog and don’t rush. Always supervise children when around dogs. Older children are capable of doing Touch and Treat as long as you have done the initial work and you are there to supervise. Never take a chance when children and dogs are interacting. Linda Tilley National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors North Carolina Responsible Animal Owners Alliance Humane Society of Granville County copyright NCRAOA please contact NCRAOA for permission to reprint |